1955 Universal Genève Polerouter Tropical Dial

Brand: Universal Genève

 

Model: Polerouter

 

Reference: 20360-1

 

Serial: xxxxxx

 

Year: Circa 1955

 

Dial: Tropical dial

 

Dimensions: 36 mm excluding crown

 

Function: Auto, timekeeping

 

Caliber: 215 microtor

 

Strap: Brown racing strap 

 

Accessories: Company watch pouch

Here we have one of the true connoisseur’s choices of mid-century watchmaking — an early 1955 Universal Genève Polerouter, reference 20360-1, featuring a breathtaking deep chocolate tropical gilt dial.

 

Up for your consideration, this is an early gilt-dial example — one of the most desirable configurations — with the reference number correctly engraved between the lugs, as expected on these early executions. The dial has aged into a rich, even chocolate tone, retaining that warm gilt printing which contrasts beautifully against the darker backdrop. Combined with the outer silver rehaut, it creates a depth and play of light that is simply mesmerising on the wrist.

 

Designed by the legendary Gerald Genta, the Polerouter remains one of the most elegant and forward-thinking designs of the 20th century. The twisted lug case is a defining feature — sharp, architectural, and incredibly well balanced — giving the watch both presence and refinement in equal measure.

 

At its heart is Universal Genève’s pioneering micro-rotor automatic movement, allowing for a noticeably slimmer profile compared to many of its contemporaries. On the wrist, this translates to a sleek, comfortable fit — very much the sweet spot for those who appreciate understated sophistication.

 

This example retains its signed crown and is fitted with a period-correct plexi. The overall condition is excellent, with the dial being the undeniable star — a truly exceptional tropicalisation that is both even and characterful, something that collectors actively seek yet rarely find to this standard.

 

Polerouters of this calibre — early, gilt, tropical, and with strong case geometry — are becoming increasingly difficult to source. Still somewhat underappreciated compared to their peers, they represent remarkable value for a design pedigree and mechanical innovation of this level.

 

A beautifully honest and visually striking example of one of the most important dress-sport watches ever created — and without question, one of the finest tropical dials you’re likely to encounter on an early Polerouter.