1960s Universal Genève Polerouter

Brand: Universal Genève 

 

Model: Polerouter Date

 

Reference: 869111/0

 

Serial: 23xxxxx

 

Year: Circa 1964

 

Dial: Gilt, gloss black dial

 

Dimensions: 36 mm excluding crown

 

Function: Manual, timekeeping

 

Caliber: Cal. 69 Automatic

 

Strap: Brown leather

 

Accessories: Company watch pouch

Up for sale is a stunning mid-1960s Universal Genève Polerouter, featuring an original glossy black crosshair dial with the highly sought-after gilt script configuration.

 

This reference 869111/01, bearing a 23 million serial number (1964) showcases all the hallmarks that have made the Polerouter one of the most celebrated mid-century designs ever produced. The beautifully sculpted twisted-lug case — penned by the legendary Gérald Genta during his early career — remains one of the most elegant and instantly recognisable case designs of the era.

 

The watch retains its original screw-back case with crisp Polerouter engraving to the rear. While the case shows honest signs of light wear from age and use, it has not been heavily over-polished or compromised, with the reference and serial numbers remaining sharp and clearly defined throughout.

 

The glossy black dial is unquestionably the star of the show. Original black dial Polerouters are becoming increasingly difficult to source in untouched condition, particularly examples retaining such rich depth, warm gilt printing, and attractive overall preservation. The crosshair layout gives the dial wonderful symmetry and balance, while the gilt Universal Genève script catches the light beautifully against the lacquered black surface.

 

This watch came to us during our travels through Spain, acquired firsthand from the original owners — always a lovely provenance to accompany a vintage piece of this calibre.

 

The watch retains its original signed Universal Genève shield crown, as well as its original signed plexi bearing the embossed shield logo. The plexi has received only a light sympathetic polish to retain clarity while preserving originality.

 

Fully overhauled and running beautifully, the watch is offered with a 12-month guarantee for complete peace of mind.

 

These early original black dial Polerouters are becoming increasingly elusive, especially in such honest and well-preserved condition. Aside from only very light surface wear commensurate with age, the watch retains the sharp architectural lines and elegant proportions that make the Polerouter such an enduring classic.